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Smart Talk

The junta in the late sixties and early seventies, which many Greeks still think was backed by the United States (Americans believe we just failed to stop it).

Cyprus: Its invasion by Turkey and its division are definitely sensitive subjects.

Tensions with Turkey in general, and whether the United States is evenhanded enough (or too evenhanded) in mediating those conflicts.

Kosovar independence, which many Greeks opposed. They make less noise about it than the Russians but were closer to the action.

Minority absorption and immigrant rights-you’d sound holier than thou if you brought it up.

Diversionary Topics - Greece as the cradle of Western civilization; and the leisurely pace of life.

Dressing Etiquette

At a meeting Men, you may never look as good as a Greek does in a suit, pressed cotton shirt, and Hermès tie, but you might as well try. Women, forego glitz and gold buttons for dark Armani suits, strappy heels, and smart leather bags.

On the street Jackie O’s legacy lives on in the legions of Greek women wearing linen trousers, nice tees, sweaters tied around the shoulders, and oversized shades. Both women and men “aim to look like a Gap ad,” says Olga Merck Davidson, a Brandeis College professor who spends part of her year in Greece. Mr. Onassis has his own followers, who wear jeans and Ralph Lauren shirts, sleeves rolled to the elbow.

At a party Clothes are secondary to jewelry, especially the chunky, dark-gold baubles and bangles worn by so many Greek women. If you can look past the sparkle, you’ll find skirts, tailored to mid-thigh, under fitted jackets. Scentwise, women strive to smell like rosemary, not like roses: They’ll only use organic products (such as the locally made Korres). Men wear dark pants and starched shirts.

P.S. No baseball caps, no Birkenstocks, no billowy fake-hippie skirts. Ever.

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Tipping Etiquette

Restaurants
Round up, plus a little more for excellent service (25 euros for 22 euro meal)

Hotels
Porters- 1 euro/bag; Housekeepers - 1 euro/day at most; concierge- only for something special.

Guides & Drivers
Taxis - no tip expected, (round up, they'll be delighted); Private drivers, 20 euros/day (50 if they have gone out of their way); Group tours - 2-5 euros/person; Private tours - 20 or more.

Who Else?
Charter a boat- tip crew/captain

*People tend to round to the next euro.

Listen Up

Basic Phrases Essential For Your Travels


Hello

Yeia soo, or to be more specific: kalemera (morning); kalispera (afternoon); kalinichta (evening/night).

Good-bye

Yeia soo. Ta leme means “see you later.” A word of warning: “Don’t talk to the hand!” says Alec Mally, a former diplomat and executive living in Greece. The common Western palm-out gesture for “stop” or “hello” is one of the most vulgar curses you can throw at a Greek.

Thank You

Efcharisto (the ch is a hard h).

Excuse Me

Signomi to get someone’s attention and also to lightly apologize—but leipame if you really mean it (and you feel their pain).

Help Me

Sas parakolo, boreite na me voithisete (“Can you please help me”), or, for emergencies, voytheya.

Please

Parakalo, which also means “you’re welcome.”

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