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Smart Talk

The Armenian genocide-writers have been prosecuted just for saying it took place.

Anything in support of the Kurdistan Workers’ Party (PKK)—or about Kurdistan in general.

Anything negative about Atatürk, the founder of modern secular Turkey.

George W. Bush. You'll hear an earful, and they might even bring him up, but it’s best to just nod even if you don’t agree on how awful he was.

Saying something-even positive-about someone’s wife or mother can be taken as offending their honor.

Diversionary Topics - Says travel specialist Earl Starkey of Protravel International: "Football [soccer], children, and family-without too much detail."

Dressing Etiquette

At a meeting Neither men nor women should go without manicures, since Turks are known for being perfectly groomed. Hair should be trimmed, suits fitted (jackets and pants need not match), button-downs left open and worn without undershirts peeking through. Tailoring is a primary indicator of class, so no matter how cheap the suit, it should fit well.

On the street “I once heard that a woman had trouble getting a tea-man to serve her because she dressed like a frumpy housewife,” says White. So dressing down is not an option. Men and women cultivate a studied casual look in designer jeans, Tod’s loafers, and ironed high-end T-shirts (like James Perse)—never shorts.

At a party Visible brand names are seen as cheap and low-class. Truly chic women wear Matthew Williamson florals rather than triangle-stamped Prada, and accessorize with one large statement bauble, like a giant cocktail ring by Turkish born Sevan Biçakçi. Hair is tightly pulled back. Men wear open shirts under light jackets with dark pants (or vice versa).

P.S. “Never wear a long raincoat,” White says. “Even when it’s pouring, a secular Turk will wear a short coat so as not to be mistaken for a conservative Islamist.”

Tipping Etiquette

Restaurants
10% or a bit more. In cash - you can’t put it on your credit card.

Hotels
Porters- $2/bag; Very helpful concierge - $10.

Guides & Drivers
Taxi drivers - aren't generally tipped, rounding up works (sometimes they just keep the change); Private cars - $25/day, regardless of size of group; Tour guides - $5-$10/person per day; Private tour guides - $20 and up.

Who Else?
Masseur at Turkish baths - $10 or 10%, whichever is greater. Boat Cabin - $10/person/day. Car park attendants- $4.

Listen Up

Basic Phrases Essential For Your Travels


Hello

Merhaba (all day); günaydin (“good morning”), tünaydin (“good afternoon”), or iyi aksamlar (“good evening”). A less formal hello is selam. In Turkey, expect cheek kisses, even between men (though it’s more of an air kiss). This isn’t always true between associates on formal occasions, so let the other person initiate. Handshakes are the safer way to go, with both sexes.

Good-bye

It varies depending on who’s leaving or staying, but the simplest route is to say görüsmek üzere (“see you later”). Otherwise, you’re stuck with the far more formal allahaismarladik—and then only if you’re leaving (see “The Long Good-Bye,” page B5). And just güle güle if you’re the one staying behind.

Thank You

Tesekkür ederim (don’t clip off the last word or you’re just saying “grateful,” with no subject); tesekkür ederiz if you’re thanking on behalf of a group.

Excuse Me

Üzgünüm to apologize; efendim or pardon to get by someone or to get their attention.

Help Me

Bana yardim edermisiniz, or, more urgently, yardim edin!

Please

Lütfen.

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